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Thankfully for those pressed for time, several key streets offer
some (or even all) of London's best retail stores, compactly located
in a niche or neighborhood so you can just stroll and shop.
GST: Greenwich Shopping Time--Though many London shops are now
open on Sundays, the best Sunday shopping is in the stalls of
the flea and craft markets in the royal city of Greenwich.
The best way to enjoy the trip is to float downstream on a boat
from Charing Cross or Westminster pier (service begins at 10:30am
on Sun.) The trip takes about a half-hour, but you'll get a knowledgeable
commentary on the Docklands development and the history of the
river, and view the Tower and much of London from the water along
the way.
The boat leaves you in the heart of Greenwich, minutes from the
craft market held on Saturday and Sunday. Follow the signs--or
the crowd. After you're done, follow the crowd again to Greenwich's
several antiques markets. First is Canopy Market, which isn't
under a canopy at all, but sprawls through several parking lots
where junk and old books abound, and then onto High Street, where
the fancier flea market is held. It's possible that there's yet
another antiques market at Town Hall, across the street, but these
shows usually charge an admission fee.
You're only a half block from the Greenwich BritRail station
now, which is on Greenwich High Road; and there's a train back
to London every half-hour, until about 11:30pm.
- Kensington, Notting Hill & Bayswater
Kensington High Street (Tube: High Street Kensington) is the hangout
of the classier breed of teen, one who has graduated from Carnaby
Street and is ready for street chic. While there are a few staples
of basic British fashion here, most of the stores feature items
that stretch, are very, very short, very, very tight, and very,
very black.
From Kensington High Street, you can walk up Kensington Church
Street, which, like Portobello Road, is one of the city's
main shopping avenues for antiques, selling everything from antique
furniture to Impressionist paintings.
Kensington Church Street dead-ends at the Notting Hill Gate Tube
station, jumping-off point for Portobello Road; the antiques dealers
and weekend market are 2 blocks beyond.
Not far from Notting Hill Gate is Whiteleys of Bayswater,
Queensway, W2 (tel. 020/7229-8844; Tube: Bayswater or Queensway),
an Edwardian mall whose chief tenant is Marks & Spencer. Whiteleys
also contains 75 to 85 shops, mostly specialty outlets and restaurants,
cafes, and bars as well as an eight-screen movie theater.
- Knightsbridge & Chelsea
Knightsbridge (Tube: Knightsbridge), the home of Harrods, is the
second-most famous London retail district. (Oxford Street edges
it out.) Nearby Sloane Street is chock-a-block with designer shops.
Walk southwest on Brompton Road (toward the Victoria and
Albert Museum) and you'll find Cheval Place, lined with
designer resale shops, and Beauchamp (Bee-cham) Place. It's only
a block long, but it's very "Sloane Ranger" or "Sloanie"
(as the Brits would say), featuring the kinds of shops where young
British aristocrats buy their clothing for the "season".
If you walk farther along Brompton Road, you connect to Brompton
Cross, another hip area for designer shops made popular when
Michelin House was rehabbed by Sir Terence Conran, becoming the
Conran Shop. Seek out Walton Street, a tiny snake of a
street running from Brompton Cross back toward the museums. Most
of the shops along this street specialize in non-essential luxury
products, the kind a severe and judgmental Victorian moralist
might dismiss as vanities and fripperies. This is where you'll
find aromatherapy from Jo Malone, needlepoint, or costume jewelry.
King's Road (Tube: Sloane Square), the main street of Chelsea,
will forever remain a symbol of the Swinging [']60s. It's still
popular with the young crowd, but there are fewer mohawk haircuts,
Bovver boots, and Edwardian ball gowns than before. More and more,
King's Road is a lineup of markets and "multi-stores,"
conglomerations of indoor stands, stalls, and booths within one
building or enclosure. About a third of King's Road is devoted
to "multi-store" antiques markets; another third houses
design-trade showrooms and stores of household wares; and the
remaining third is faithful to the area's teenybopper roots.
Finally, don't forget all those museums in nearby South Kensington--they
all have great gift shops.
- The West End
As a neighborhood, the West End includes Mayfair and is home to
the core of London's big-name shopping. Most of the department
stores, designer shops, and multiples (chain stores) have their
flagships in this area.
The key streets are Oxford Street (in either direction)
for affordable shopping (start at Marble Arch Tube station if
you're ambitious, or Bond Street station if you only care to see
some of it), and Regent Street, which intersects Oxford
Street at Oxford Circus (Tube: Oxford Circus). The Oxford Street
flagship (at Marble Arch) of the private-label department store
Marks & Spencer ("Marks & Sparks" in the local
parlance) is worth visiting for quality goods. Regent Street,
which leads all the way to Piccadilly, has more upscale department
stores (including the famed Liberty of London), chains (Laura
Ashley), and specialty dealers.
Parallel to Regent Street, Bond Street (Tube: Bond Street)
connects Piccadilly with Oxford Street and is synonymous with
the luxury trade. Divided into New and Old, it has experienced
a recent revival and is the hot address for international designers;
Donna Karan has two shops here. A slew of international hotshots,
from Chanel to Ferragamo to Versace, have digs nearby.
Burlington Arcade (Tube: Piccadilly Circus), the famous
glass-roofed, Regency-style passage leading off Piccadilly, looks
like a period exhibition and is lined with intriguing shops and
boutiques. Lit by wrought-iron lamps and decorated with clusters
of ferns and flowers, its small, smart stores specialize in fashion,
jewelry, Irish linen, cashmere, and more. If you linger there
until 5:30pm, you can watch the beadles (the last London representatives
of Britain's oldest police force), in their black-and-yellow livery
and top hats, ceremoniously place the iron grills that block off
the arcade until 9am, at which time they just as ceremoniously
remove them to start a new business day. (There are only 3 beadles
remaining.) Also at 5:30pm, a hand bell called the Burlington
Bell is sounded, signaling the end of trading.
For a total contrast, check out Jermyn Street (Tube: Piccadilly
Circus), on the far side of Piccadilly, a tiny 2-block-long street
devoted to high-end men's haberdashers and toiletries shops; many
have been doing business for centuries. Several hold royal warrants,
including Turnbull & Asser, where HRH Prince Charles has his
P.J.s made. A bit to the northwest, Savile Row (between Regent
Street and New Bond Street) is synonymous with the finest in men's
tailoring.
The West End theater district borders two more shopping areas:
the still-not-ready-for-prime-time Soho (Tube: Tottenham
Court Road), where the sex shops are slowly converting into cutting-edge
designer shops, and Covent Garden (Tube: Covent Garden),
a shopping masterpiece unto itself. The original Covent Garden
marketplace has overflowed its boundaries and eaten up the surrounding
neighborhood; it's fun to wander the narrow streets and shop.
Covent Garden is mobbed on Sundays.
Just a stone's throw from Covent Garden, Monmouth Street
is somewhat of a London shopping secret: Londoners know they can
find an array of stores in a space of only 2 blocks. Many shops
here are outlets for British designers such as Alexander Campbell,
who specializes in outfits made of wispy materials. Some shops
along this street specialize in both used and new clothing. Besides
clothing, stores specialize in everything from musical instruments
from the Far East to palm and crystal ball readings.
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